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BMW E3. 6 3- Series Shift Bushings Replacement (1. Every BMW I have owned has always shifted pretty well - providing that the shift bushings are not worn out. Very often on older BMWs, the shifting ability deteriorates as the years go by.

While many people blame their transmissions and prepare for a full rebuild, their worries may be needless. In many cases, the shift bushings have simply worn out and need to be replaced. Worn bushings can result in sloppy shifting, misplaced shifts, and grinding when engaging gears. Most people are amazed at the improvement that occurs when they replace their bushings. A mere $4. 5 spent on new bushings is a heck of a lot cheaper than a $1. The first step is to jack up the car and gain access to the under carriage (Figure 1). The main shift linkage components are located above the driveshaft.

The photos for this technical article were taken with the driveshaft removed, as I was performing a clutch replacement at the same time. Keep in mind that during the normal process of replacing these bushings, your access and viewpoint will be restricted by the driveshaft (Figure 2). You can accomplish all the tasks without removing the driveshaft - it just makes things a bit more difficult. Before working underneath the car, you should move to the cockpit and remove the gearshift knob. See our Pelican Technical article on Gearshift Knob Replacement for more details. With the gear shift knob removed, remove the foam padding beneath the shift boot. Then pull up the rubber shift boot so that it is only connected to the shifter lever.

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Now, move underneath the car. The shifter assembly is shown in Figure 5. Again, this photo was taken without the driveshaft installed, so you will have to peek and work around the driveshaft while you're working on the shifter mechanism. Begin by removing the lower shift selector rod. This rod is held onto the shifter handle and transmission coupler by two small circlips. Using a small screwdriver, remove both circlips (Figure 6 and Figure 7) and the rod should simply slide off (Figure 8). Catch the yellow plastic washers as they fall out of the assembly when you remove it.

Now, pry out the shifter arm bushing which is attached to the chassis, and supports the shifter arm (Figure 9). A small flathead screwdriver will work well in this case. Figure 1. 0 shows the inside of the bushing as it is being removed. This will leave the shifter arm attached only to transmission hinge point. This part is very tricky if you have never done it before, or don't know what to expect. Never fear - the photos here will make it very easy.

There is a clip that is attached to the transmission that secures the shifter arm. You need to remove this clip from the transmission in order to remove the arm. The trouble is, you cannot see the clip and cannot see what you're doing, or how to release the clip. However, if you have enough photos and know how it's mounted, then removing it should be a snap. The side of the clip is shown in Figure 1. Another view is shown in Figure 1. Removal of the clip is shown in Figure 1. Composite Design Reliable Software Through Pictures.

These are all photos taken from underneath the car. This is what you will see, but will not be very useful to you while you are removing this clip. To be 1. 00% on how to remove it, we'll have to take a look at some of the photos detailed later in this article. Figure 4. 6 shows the top of the transmission where the clip sits. Figure 4. 7 shows the clip and its integrated pin, and how it is lifted up for removal. Figure 4. 8 shows the clip mounted and attached to the transmission flange. You can't see this from under the car, and it will drive you crazy trying to get this off if you don't know how it's attached (trust me, I know).

Figure 4. 9 shows the opposite side of the clip. Finally, Figure 1.

It's not easy underneath the car, but it is possible. With the right knowledge and a small screwdriver, this clip can come out within about 3. Without knowing exactly what to do, it could take hours. With the clip removed, you can then tug on the shifter arm, and the entire assembly should drop from the car (Figure 1.

Renewing your shifter bushings is as simple as replacing all of the parts that have a tendency to wear out. Figure 1. 6 shows all of the pieces and bushings that I feel should be replaced to return your shifter back to a pristine, precise feel. Of course, some of your existing components may be reusable, so inspect them carefully. But if you want everything to be 1. Here's what's detailed in Figure 1. Shift coupler with internal bushing. Pin retaining clip (often destroyed or weakened when removed)3- Ball cup sponge - typically completely disintegrated.

Shifter arm bushing (attaches to chassis)5- Shifter arm bushing (attaches to transmission)6- Lower shift boot (often cracked)7- Shifter arm pin (often damaged when removed)8- Shift selector rod circlips. Yellow plastic washers/bushings for shift selector rod. Shift handle ball cup bushing (almost always heavily worn)Let's begin the renewal process by replacing each bushing, starting with the shifter arm bushing (sometimes called a carrier bushing) that attaches to the transmission. The old bushing is shown in Figure 1.

Remove the old bushing by cutting it off with a razor blade or knife (Figure 1. The inside of the bushing may have some metal parts reinforcing it, so be aware of this while you are cutting. The new bushing is simply inserted into the arm, as is shown in Figure 1. You probably won't be able to push the bushing in all of the way yourself, so you may have to use a press or a vice to help get the bushing seated completely in the arm (Figure 2.

You can use the standard stock bushings, or upgrade to aftermarket Delrin carrier bushings. UUC Motorwerks makes a fine set of aftermarket bushings that I recommend.

They are direct replacements for the factory rubber bushing, and are a more precise fit than the originals. Figure 2. 1 shows this Delrin bushings, and Figure 2.

Now let's talk about the shifter arm bushing (Figure 2. Unfortunately, if this bushing is worn, then you have to replace the entire arm. The good news is that if you are installing a short shift kit, then you are going to be replacing the arm anyways. For more information on Installing a Short Shift Kit (SSK), see the Pelican Technical Article: Installing a 3- Series Short Shift Kit. The main bushing that becomes worn out is the ball- cup bushing that the shift handle sits in. Pulling back on the shift boot shows this bushing (Figure 2. There is a small, special tool that is used to remove this bushing from the shifter arm, however, I found that you don't really need it. Sims Day And Night Trilogy Hacked Shooting.

You can use two screwdrivers to rotate the bushing counter- clockwise, and it should snap out of its housing. If the bushing offers resistance, you can chip at it with a screwdriver or pick, as you will be replacing it anyways. Figure 2. 5 shows the bushing being removed after rotating it out of the housing. To get the bushing off of the shifter arm, simply pull on it with your fingers (Figure 2. Figure 2. 7). Figure 2. Clean off the shifter arm thoroughly before installing the new ball- cup bushing (Figure 2.

Now is also a good time to install your new boot (Figure 3. Clean the inside of the shifter arm where the ball- cup bushing fits (Figure 3.

Apply some white lithium grease to the ball of the shifter arm prior to installation (Figure 3. Push the new ball cup bushing onto the shift lever and insert into the shifter arm (Figure 3. Push the bushing in and rotate it clockwise with a screwdriver (Figure 3. Figure 3. 5). Now, we'll turn our attention to the shift selector coupler. The coupler is attached to the transmission with a small press pin.

Remove the covering clip and tap out this pin to remove the coupler from the transmission. With the coupler removed, take a close look at your shift selector seal. If it's looking like it might be worn, this would be an ideal time to replace it. The shift selector seal is indicated by the yellow arrow in Figure 3. Removal is accomplished by taking a pick or screwdriver and picking it out of its bore (Figure 3. The new shift shaft selector seal is pushed onto the shaft and pressed into its bore (Figure 3. It's easy to tap it in with a deep socket placed over the shaft (Figure 3.

Tap the seal in until it is flush with the transmission housing. Now we'll move onto the shift coupler bushings. Using a wire brush, ensure that the ball on the transmission selector shaft is clean and clear of debris (Figure 4. A new shift coupler is shown in Figure 4. There is a small sponge piece that fits inside of the coupler (Figure 4. This small sponge eliminates any backlash or slop in the transmission selector and is important to maintaining a crisp shifting feel.

The sponge piece is shown installed in the coupler in Figure 4. With the new sponge installed, mount the coupler on the transmission and tap in the pin that secures it to the selector shaft (shown by the red arrow in Figure 4.

Make sure that you place the small retaining clip on the selector shaft prior to tapping in the pin - otherwise you will not be able to get the clip on (shown with blue arrow in Figure 4. When the pin is tapped in, move the retaining clip to cover it. With all of the bushings and couplers installed, it's now time to install the shifter arm back into the car. Installation of the retaining clip is the opposite of removal. Figure 4. 6 shows the top of the transmission where the clip sits. Figure 4. 7 shows the clip and its integrated pin, and how it is lifted up for removal. Figure 4. 8 shows the clip mounted and attached to the transmission flange.

You can't see this from under the car, and it will drive you crazy trying to get this off if you don't know how it's attached (trust me, I know). Figure 4. 9 shows the opposite side of the clip. Now, install the new shifter arm bushing (Figure 5. Place the bushing on the end of the shifter arm, and then snap it into place in its bracket on the bottom of the chassis (Figure 5.